A five hour train ride took me to Nuremburg, but it passed quickly. The high-speed trains travel up to 165km per hour.
Nuremburg baked in 33 degrees, and I reached my hotel in ten minutes which was situated in the old walled town. I was informed by the receptionist that my room was on the third floor but it had no lift. I asked for assistance to carry my case, I was informed there was none. Where was the porter? She blinked at me in amazement – there was no porter.
So, I sat in reception and waited for her to come up with a solution. Yes, there was a room, which could be assessed by lift. It was newly renovated, had a balcony but would cost an extra 20 euro a night. I took it.
The next day I rode the tram to the Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelaende – the museum dedicated to the rise of the Nazi Party and Nuremburg’s involvement. The museum is located in the Deutscheshalle built but was never finished, as all resources had to be concentrated on winning the war. Hitler choose to hold his party rallies here, because it demonstrated the unity of the German nation, and drew a parallel with the NS movement and the glory of the medieval emperor. Audio, film, reading and photos relate the chilling story of the rise and fall of the Nazis. Thousands of the party faithful came from all over Germany to extol and listen to Hitler and other party members speak. I was surprised at the number of women who attended. There is one photo of three generations of women waving frantically, the look of adoration on their faces is truly chilling. In a film clip, two elderly women recount their experiences at the rallies. One says excitedly she saw Hitler 12 times waiting for hours to see him. They showed no remorse for their part.
It takes about ten minutes to walk to the rally grounds. The monumental structure is similar to Rome’s coliseum but has fallen into disrepair. I walked up the steps and stood probably where Hitler did, when he addressed his fanatical followers. A strange and surreal feeling.
I would recommend anyone coming to Nuremburg needs to visit this museum. It’s interesting, informative and shocking. A reminder of the inhumanity of the Nazi regime.
The next day I visited a toy museum. Yes, a toy museum! I spent a lovely couple of hours looking at the amazing range of exhibits from the very early toys from 1870 to the 1960’s. The dolls houses were amazing with their kitchen appliances modelled in incredible detail. I never cared for dolls, and some of them looked quite spooky. I hiked up to the castle, a very steep climb on cobbles, but worth it for the views over the red roofs of the city.
Tomorrow onto Munich!